Our Last Adventures in Spain: Barceloneta and Tarragona

The last travel post of this most excellent visit to Spain begins deliciously. After a few days of cellophane wrapped muffins for breakfast, we needed a change. So two days in a row we breakfasted at Granja Dulcinea, an old institution in the Barri Gotic. They serve delicious churros con chocolata, and assorted pastries. My only regret: not suggesting it sooner so we could have eaten a couple fewer hostel breakfasts of cellophane wrapped muffins.

At the table next to us there were two women who each ordered hot chocolate churros, melindros, crema Catalonia, a couple more things. They didn't eat any of it the whole time we were there, they were just posing it and taking pictures of it. That is a HUGE amount of food to not eat, and they couldn't possibly finish a fraction of it. I do not understand instagram, apparently.

Next stop: Barceloneta beach. If you want to plant yourself in the sand and hang out at the beach, I don't necessarily recommend this one. It is lovely, and it is a good place to go for a walk or jog or bike ride. The aggressive salesmen won't chase you down, but if you are sedentary they will descend like vultures on hot roadkill. 

Beach blanket sellers were plentiful and pushy, but they would take no for an answer. The massagers were a bit more invasive. If you don't like unsolicited, unexpected massages from strangers, this beach isn't for you. I spent probably 2 minutes getting a "free" massage while telling this woman constantly that I didn't want a massage and I would not be paying for a 5 Euro 5 minute massage. It took this long probably because I was too calm in my protestations. If I had responded like a crazy person, we could have gotten rid of them much more quickly, but I didn't want to shame them or anything. They're just trying to make a living. It takes guts to walk up and start massaging strangers, though I think much of it as a sales technique.

After our walk along the beach, we headed inland and uphill to the Parque del Laberint d'Horta. It is a big lovely garden park, complete with a hedge maze. A small maze, but deceptively tricky. 

The park was filled with rugged seeming wooded areas, fountains, ponds, and pseudo-Grecian statues. It was built as part of the estate of the wealthy Desvalls family starting around 1791, it was turned into a city park in the 1960's. It is a little far from the town center, which means it is delightfully devoid of tourist crowds.

After this adventure it was time to say good-bye to my lovely nieces, nephew, sister-in-law, and deranged brother. They were heading out early the next morning--except when they didn't because weather--but our joint trip ended there.

Lee, my mom, and I still had one more day of adventure planned. Our last day of travel we spent in Tarragona. This little town just down the coast was quiet, colder than expected, and full of Roman history.

Lee on the beautiful Balcony of the Mediterranean

This Roman Amphitheater has been many things over the millennia: dead in the center the early Christians built a church to commemorate an early martyr. That church was later destroyed and rebuilt and, obviously was more or less destroyed by neglect again. Due to a number of structural and preservation related concerns, the amphitheater was getting inspected and we couldn't go down in and walk around. Hopefully it gets the support it needs to keep intact for future visitors.

Just across the street is the remnants of the Roman Circus. This is where the famous chariot races would take place. Just one corner of the track and spectator stands remains.  Enterprising medieval Catalans used the structure at the foundation for look out towers, so there are some slightly more modern additions to the circus.

Under the stands where the spectators sat, there were these big long tunnels. I believe these were perhaps ancient locker rooms, merch stands, and food vendor stalls.

Inside a tall lookout tower one can find a collection of Roman artifacts...

Models of Tarragona's Roman layout...

And the rooftop provides the best views of Tarragona! You can see the tunnels, the sea, the Circus, the Amphitheater...

This is the best vantage for understanding what part of the circus we're looking at. Note the stadium seating and the curve of the track.

And our next destination: the cathedral of Tarragona.

The cathedral is quite large, beautifully Gothic, and had a small museum of artifacts from all eras of Tarragona's storied past. From the Romans to the Visigoths, the Moors to the Inquisition, the conquest of Napoleon and beyond.

I think you might know how I feel about Mudejar architecture at this point. If you missed it somehow: I love it.

And our last visit was a walk through the garden along the ancient fortified walls. The foundation of the walls are Roman, the rest has been built and dismantled half a dozen times in the past couple of centuries. It has been converted into a romantic style garden and makes for a nice walk.

And look at this NOOK we found. In case you've forgotten, we like a good nook.

And that afternoon we made our way back to Barcelona, just as it started to rain in Tarragona I might add, and headed to our last adventure! We took a food tour with Devour Barcelona. Unpaid promotion ahead: We got delicious food, an educational experience, visited local bars and restaurants, and had a good laugh with the other tour member and a very nice, smart guide.
We would never have found these spots without local help, and with a guide to help us overcome the language barrier, we tried delicious sandwiches, bomba, botifarra, patatas bravas, alcohol free vermut, sardines, olives, and cheeses. I have never been so full. Food tours are pricey, and this one was worth every penny!

BYOB: Bring your own bottle and you can fill up on the in house vermouth and wine at this old school bodega!

And with that, our trip to Barcelona concludes. We made our way to the airport and headed home to experience winter and rescue Grandma Karen from our kids. We brought home lots of goodies, photos, gifts, and happy memories. To all of 5 of you readers, I hope next trip is a good as this one!